Book of the month
Mother Tongue: Flavours of a second generation
I smiled so much reading British-Indian food writer Gurdeep Loyal’s debut book; this is the work of a real talent. Inventiveness, originality and pleasure run through every page. Feeling like an immigrant in both Britain and India, Loyal uses that licence to play with and reinvent the familiar and to create striking combinations, while including the deliciously different: ingredients such as the wonderfully sour kokum (a dried fruit used to add bright acidity) get a welcome inclusion. The recipes are consistently inviting, and more than occasionally wow-out-loud thrilling: I couldn’t decide between sticky treacle and kokum chicken lollipops or coconut-crab crumpetswith railway crispy eggs, so I made both, and I’m so glad I did. In the introductory pages, Loyal builds your confidence in understanding flavour combinations (or ‘chords’ as he puts it). This is a book of terrific writing, bold photography and fresh design, by an author who leads you with a confident, friendly, humorous voice.
Recipe to make: Pear and panjiri trifle – panjiri is a Punjabi dessert made from flour cooked in ghee, with sugar or jaggery, spices and ground nuts.
Fun fact… Who knew red leicester cheese would go so well with spice and sweet potatoes?
Published by 4th Estate, available from Amazon, out 2nd March (£26).
Notable releases
Rice Table
Su Scott’s intimate book shares the food and experience of a Korean mother living in Britain, and the relationship between her, her daughter and the food they eat. It’s engagingly written, and there’s much here about the importance of food and identity. The book is beautifully designed and photographed, and the recipes are a delight. Expect everything from innovative ferments (white cabbage and apple kimchi) to bold mains such as grilled clams with sweet doenjang (fermented soybean paste) vinaigrette.
Recipe to make: Spicy squid salad
Fun fact… Many Koreans believe the touch of the fingertips can influence the overall harmony of flavour in a dish.
Published by Quadrille, available from Waterstones, out 30 March (£27).
Salt of the Earth
Carolina Doriti’s rich celebration of Greek food is written with the affection and authenticity of someone who’s lived most of her life in Athens. As inviting as the recipes are, there’s equal pleasure in the supporting pages, which are soaked in the history of Greece and its food culture. The landscape, recipes and ingredient photographs combine with a vibrant, clean design to create a strong sense of place.
Recipe to make: Stuffed baked quince in a spiced brandy and rose syrup.
Fun fact… Olive leaves can be infused and enjoyed as a tea.
Published by Quadrille, available from Waterstones, out 2nd March (£27)
The Art of Friday Night Dinner
Eleanor Steafel’s book (nothing to do with the sitcom) is a joyous read that completely captures the special-ness of Friday nights. The writing is lively, tight and fun: briny martinis and references to the movie The Way We Were are so far up my street as to be camping in the garden. Bursting with generosity and great recipes, this is as much of a pleasure for the stories, intimacy and sense you’re in the room with a friend passing you another cocktail, another small plate.
Recipe to make: Mushrooms with sherry vinegar, potatoes, soured cream and toasted buckwheat.
Fun fact… Miso pairs so beautifully with peaches.
Published by Bloomsbury, available from WHSmith, out 30 March (£26).
Cucina di Amalfi
Ursula Ferrigno’s book has a simple proposition – to share the food of the ‘divine coast’ of Italy’s Amalfi in chapters beautifully realised by an author who was born and has lived in the landscapes she writes about. The food of this region is well loved, but expect delightful takes on the familiar – green chicory ravioli is one of many I want to try.
Recipe to make: Veal scaloppine with parsley caper sauce.
Fun fact… The entire Amalfi Coast has been listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its unique landscape and natural beauty.
Published by Ryland Peters & Small, available from WHSmith out 14 March (£20).
